Into The Nowhere
After 5 hours of driving towards the off-grid estancia through the vast pampas of Northern Patagonia, Argentina, we began to grasp the true meaning of living off-the-grid. For hours on end, the horizon was nothing but desert and emptiness. Not a single person in sight, only occasional passing cars, perhaps seeking a similar off-grid experience as we were. As we ventured further away from civilisation, the thought of spending the next 10 days relying solely on solar power in a remote Argentinian estancia made us a bit anxious.
It All Started With National Geographic
An article in National Geographic piqued our interest in this 100,000-acre estancia in the Neuquen province of Argentina. We often discussed the idea of living away from civilization and wondered if we were cut out for such an off-grid lifestyle. Would we thrive without a community around us? We felt that Argentina was the perfect place to find the answers to these questions.
Off-Season Edition at Off-Grid Estancia Ranquilco
As we approached the off-season in Argentina, we contacted Ranquilco and were informed that the main tourist guest lodge was closing. Our only option was to be hosted by the owner himself, as seasonal workers and volunteers were heading to their next adventure. Who better than the owner to explain his reasons for choosing a peaceful life on a 100,000-acre cattle ranch in the Andes?
Ranquilco is surrounded by the rugged peaks of the Andes and the infinite dusty pampas of Northern Patagonia. Much of the land to this day remains uncultivated and public. Gaucho culture is still very much alive here. The modern world has not disrupted the tradition of moving herds seasonally to summer in puestos – gaucho summer campsites that are nothing more than a shack made out of wood with a roof and a stack of hides to sleep on. This kind of lifestyle remains strong among local families in this area, unlike in other places where it is declining.
Hours Of Driving Followed By a Horseback Ride
We spent an entire day traveling through Northern Argentina to reach this estancia. In winter, the last part of the trail is inaccessible by car, so horseback riding is the only option. As the trail started to narrow, we knew we were in for something very special. Once arrived to destination, we had to wait for a shower because the water was wood-heated, which took some time – welcome to your off-grid experience folks!
Self-Sustaining And Low-Waste
The estancia is self-sustaining and low-waste. They use wood-heated showers, electricity from sunshine (on the good days), and tap water from the springs up the mountain. The food comes from their own garden, and the meat is from their own herds. It takes a lot of effort to maintain this lifestyle, but the satisfaction of nourishing your body with food you’ve grown yourself is unparalleled.
Three Day Horseback Into The Andes
The most memorable experience during our stay at the remote estancia in Argentina was a three-day horseback trip into the Andes. We loaded our essentials onto a mule and set off towards our intended campsite for the night, one of the gaucho puestas. 7 hours of travel ahead of us. Progress was slower than anticipated, mainly due to encountering a cattle drive on a narrow cliff passage in the mountains. As a result, we reached our planned shelter late and had to settle for a campsite under the stars. Sleeping under the stars turned out to be an incredibly magical experience, especially in the stunning Andes.
Gauchos Turn Up When You Need Them
The gauchos proved to be invaluable guides in this vast land. We could go the entire day without encountering a single gaucho, only to have one appear just when we felt lost. Their weathered faces seemed to reflect a lifetime spent under the sun and wind, making them appear older than their passport would suggest. We struck a deal with a gaucho to purchase half a goat from his herd for a later assado dinner, graciously declining an invitation to join the gauchos for dinner at their puesta. Our guide Jose warned us that their dinners involved more alcohol than we were comfortable with.
Connection With Nature At its Best
The Northern Patagonia offers infinite horizons and the powerful voice of nature that is hard to ignore. Pacha Mama reveals her beauty in this area, where there are no roads cutting through the 100,000-acre property. It resembles a national park more than a private property.
What Level Of Off-Gridding is Right?
If you are interested in experiencing the Argentine estancia lifestyle, we recommend looking for a place that offers more comfort. There are many estancias in Argentina that provide hot showers at any time of the day and a continuous supply of electricity to charge your appliances. Our experience at the property we stayed at pushed us to our limits, especially during a sandstorm when the sand was blowing into our room through amateurishly plastic-covered windows instead of glass.
We’ve learned that being in touch with nature is non-negotiable for us. Having access to spring water on our own property is the ultimate luxury. However, we won’t sacrifice basic comforts like hot water and electricity in order to do so.
What to Pack For Your Off-Grid Experience
If you’ve ever camped in your life, you know how much effort goes into packing all you need and nothing that you can survive without. When you’re horse-backing this is even more crucial. Not overloading our mule was the main concern when it came to packing. These are the items we learned were absolutely crucial on our three-day horseback experience:
- Head torch
- Highest quality sleeping bag
- Sunglasses
- Layers layers layers
- Hats for sun and for cold
- Gloves
- Face cover for the wind and sand
- Water bottle or bag
- Sunscreen
- Cooking gear
- Wet wipes
- Warm socks for the night
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